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How to Tie a Prusik Knot

Intermediate
🧗 Climbing🏔️ Mountaineering⛷️ Glacier travel

The Prusik is a friction hitch that grips a rope under load and slides freely when unloaded — used for ascending a fixed rope, escaping a belay, and crevasse rescue.

How to Tie a Prusik Knot Step by Step

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Written Instructions — Prusik Knot

  1. Loop around main rope Take a Prusik loop and wrap it around the main rope.
  2. First pass through itself Pass the loop end through itself (the loop) around the main rope once.
  3. Second pass through itself Pass the loop through itself a second time. Minimum two passes for reliable grip.
  4. Dress the knot Slide all wraps together so they lie neat and parallel before loading.
  5. Load and slide Grips under load, slides when you grasp the knot body and push.

Tips for Tying a Prusik Knot

  • Cord diameter should be 60–70% the main rope diameter — too thick and it won't grip, too thin and it may melt.
  • Always dress the Prusik before trusting it — undressed, crossed wraps grip unevenly.
  • Three wraps (triple Prusik) provides significantly more grip on icy or wet ropes.
  • A Prusik won't grip a rope of the same or smaller diameter — always use thinner cord on a thicker rope.
  • Test the Prusik by weighting it gently before trusting it for ascent.

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