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How to Tie a Prusik Knot
The Prusik is a friction hitch that grips a rope under load and slides freely when unloaded — used for ascending a fixed rope, escaping a belay, and crevasse rescue.
How to Tie a Prusik Knot Step by Step
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Written Instructions — Prusik Knot
- Loop around main rope Take a Prusik loop and wrap it around the main rope.
- First pass through itself Pass the loop end through itself (the loop) around the main rope once.
- Second pass through itself Pass the loop through itself a second time. Minimum two passes for reliable grip.
- Dress the knot Slide all wraps together so they lie neat and parallel before loading.
- Load and slide Grips under load, slides when you grasp the knot body and push.
Tips for Tying a Prusik Knot
- Cord diameter should be 60–70% the main rope diameter — too thick and it won't grip, too thin and it may melt.
- Always dress the Prusik before trusting it — undressed, crossed wraps grip unevenly.
- Three wraps (triple Prusik) provides significantly more grip on icy or wet ropes.
- A Prusik won't grip a rope of the same or smaller diameter — always use thinner cord on a thicker rope.
- Test the Prusik by weighting it gently before trusting it for ascent.
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